The
Road That Leads To Highwater
The
edited version of this story first appeared in
the
Great
Canadian Home & Cottage Magazine
SPECIAL
SHOW ISSUE - May/June 2005
And
so it begins - the annual, weekly pilgrimage through
tailights, tailgaters and trailers. All in the quest
for 48 hours or serenity prior to 120 hours of insanity,
each week. I know this. Not because I own a lovely
two bedroom cottage on Lake Rosseau (not!), or perhaps
up in Gravenhurst, but because I reside on Georgian
Bay. I've grown up here, got into the usual teenage
angst troubles here, married here, had my now thirteen
entering teenage angst years daughter here, got
divorced here. My yard backs onto one of Ontario's
busiest, major highways - the corridor that leads
to all things serene - the call of the loon at 5:30
a.m., mist over a mirror lake, or a cow moose with
her calf. All things cottage. All things serene.
Unless of course the poor old cow decides to wander
across your path of travel - after which comes the
next thing cottage - the tow truck.
The
evergreen forests and crystal blue lakes of Northern
Ontario are the perennial envy of my New Mexican
buddies, who cannot fathom the sight of a freshwater
lake. Or green grass lawns, for that matter. They
ask, "Are there any rivers or lakes where you
live?" I respond proudly, telling them of my
fishing escapades. I tell them of chopping a hole
into the ice in the wintertime to lower a line.
About peeing into a cottage cheese container inside
the ice hut, while the retired, former Maple Leaf
Hockey teamers whizz away behind theirs, which just
happens to be next to ours.
Picture
this - my daughter and I are in incognito in a rental
ice hut on Georgian Bay, surrounded by burly,bearded
snowmobilers, all which, like ourselves are hoping
to catch "the one that got away". Incognito,
that is until my daughter raises her line to replace
the worm she thought she lost - only to discover
there's a huge Northern Pike at the other end, staring
back at her. After the poor about-to-be-filleted
fish spits the hook out of its mouth, it begins
flopping about the ice hut floor wildly while we
scream.
A
knock at our ice hut door reveals to the retired
NHL-ers that we are of the female gender occupying
the ice hut next to theirs - so much for female
incognito-ism in the name of safety! Politely offering
their assistance, I graciously decline - informing
them we have everything under control - if I can
only manage to hit the Northern in the head with
the only thing available that's heavy and made of
steel - the gaff. My southwestern friends are staring
at me by now in total disbelief, while I leave them
in the dust, so to speak, and carry on with my tales
of the evergreen forests that line the roadways
up to cottage country. (By now my friends are longing
to come to this place, the "cottage country"!)
For
23 years now I have been exploring this continent
on two wheels - "I've been everywhere man -
I've breathed the mountain air, man...", and
still I believe that some of the most beautiful
riding exists in cottage country - my very own back
yard.
Each year, following the winter snows, yet long
before the last of the forest snow has disappeared,
I take my ritualistic, season-opening ride up to
the Big Chute Marine Railway, located in Big Chute,
near Severn Falls, Ontario.
Navigating
my way through twisty turns and gently rolling hills
I must be mindful of the thick, salty sand that
has accumulated on the road over the winter. It
has been an exceptionally heavy winter, and by the
looks of things the salt trucks have done a good
job. I'm always one of the first riders out on the
roads following winter, and I am well aware of the
potential for running into wildlife (the other kind
of wildlife not arriving 'til the May 24 weekend).
Deer make their presence known in springtime, when
the melted snow on the roads reveals the underlying
salt. They come out onto the roads to lick the salt
off - making springtime driving in cottage country
hazardous.
As
I arrive, all is quiet and desolate at "the
Chute", as the locals call it. The idling of
my straight-piped engine breaks the silent air with
its unmistakable, undulating Harley pulse. I turn
off the ignition and the birds gradually resume
their flitting here and there, catching the insects
on the warm April wind. I walk around and study
the silent, sleeping giant. Initially known as the
Simcoe Railway and Power Company in 1911, the present
hydro plant at this site utilized the white waters
to generate power - contracting it to the HEPC (Hydro
Electric Power Commission) to supply Penetanguishene
and Midland with it's electricity. Purchasing the
plant in 1914, the HEPC went on to become Ontario
Hydro.
An
integral part of marine history in this region,
the Big Chute Marine Railway is still the vital
connection between Gloucester Pool and the Upper
Severn River, along the Trent-Severn Waterway. Built
into a narrow chute of naturally occurring granite
it was originally intended as a temporary alternative
to a marine lock system. The original, smaller version
of the existing railway still remains alongside
the newer railway, constructed in 1977. The original
marine railway operation had begun after 1917, when
construction of a marine lock system came to a halt
due to lack of government dollars, a result of money
being redirected towards the Great World War. Left
to be overgrown with weeds, the original lock project
including damns and locks would soon be abandoned
for the transportation of watercraft by submerged
railway.
Guys
love this kind of stuff - but so do I. In the summertime,
it is quite a sight to see large yachts and smaller
marine vessels being transported from one body of
water to another, by way of a submerged rail car.
The 100 tonne crib that holds these vessels is loaded
while still submerged, with large straps facilitating
the stabilization and transportation of the boats
up a 17+ metre height of land and out into the upper
river level, across the other side. Every summer
this place is bustling with visitors from all around
the world, all marveling at this amazing process.
Bikers love this stretch of road, from the time
they leave Coldwater and ride County Rd. 17, with
her twisty scenic sections to beyond the Big Chute
and out to Hwy 400 North (formerly Hwy. 69) - further
taking them to the Bala/Port Carling cottage areas.
It is a regular run for bikers, motor-homers and
Sunday drivers alike - and let's not forget the
watercraft operators - to them the Big Chute Marine
Railway is an important part of their highway.
It
always amazes me how many people in our area have
never seen this historical wonder - heck, not even
Vern knew what ''The Big Chute" was. (Vern
owns this magazine...) It is still one of the best-kept
secrets of vacationland - our vacationland.
HOW DO WE
GET THERE?!!
From
Barrie take Hwy. 400 North Extension to Coldwater.
Exit off Hwy. 400 at exit #137, Lower Big Chute
Rd. Go to the stop sign, then go Hwy. 12 West. Exit
right onto Coldwater Rd. This will take you directly
into downtown Coldwater. At the red flashing light
(Gray Street) go straight. You are now on River
Road, which eventually turns into Simcoe County
Rd. 17, Upper Big Chute Rd. It will take you approximately
25 minutes to get to the Chute from Coldwater. Upper
Big Chute Rd. meanders through gently rolling farmland,
marshy ponds, lakes and rivers, surrounded by hardwood
and evergreen forest. This is a particularly beautiful
ride in October, when the leaves are ablaze with
colour.
From Parry Sound take Hwy. 400 South to Muskoka
Rd. 34, then to White Falls Rd. Take White Falls
Road until it leads you to Upper Big Chute Rd.,
right at the Big Chute Marine Railway.
From Orillia take Hwy. 12 west to Coldwater,
from there follow same directions as from Barrie.