Ghosts of Gold

Riding the Spirit of the West

This story first appeared in Long Riders Magazine

June 2009

Heat, sun and tumbleweed. All things western and gold; all things Montana. Easing off my throttle to avoid the cat-sized roll of tumbleweed, the gust of wind tunnelling its way between the large rolling hills on either side of Hwy. 287 catches my packs. Fighting the elements and having to travel vast distances in hopes of striking it rich led many groups of gold prospectors to set up makeshift towns as a base for supplies and temporary reprieve.

Over 30 million dollars' worth of gold is estimated to have been extracted from the ground at Alder Gulch near Virginia City, Montana. By autumn of 1864, close to 10,000 people inhabited the surrounding hillsides. Virginia City was home to Montana's first newspaper, the Montana Post and also became the capital of Montana Territory, remaining so for ten years, until the gold claims largely ended. By1875, Montana's capital city was moved to Last Chance Gulch, known today as Helena, following the discovery of gold in that region, further punctuating Virginia City's demise.

Virginia City's smaller neighbor, Nevada City, 1 ½ miles away, stands as a preservation of buildings which were erected surrounding the areas of Virginia and Nevada Cities, including buildings brought in from various other ghost towns across Montana by Charles and Sue Bovey. In its heyday, Nevada City held over six blocks of cabins, stores and various other businesses.

Today, Virginia and Nevada Cities are living ghost towns. Staying at Bennett House Country Inn, I awoke to the sounds of a morning cattle drive through main street Virginia City. I've always been intrigued by old relic buildings and western ghost towns. This particular tour I was on a mission to find as many ghost towns, whether accessible by motorcycle or not, as possible. Passing mega-sized horse and cattle ranches across the State of Montana, along the way I met some interesting characters, one of them on the main street of Virginia City.

Stepping out of Brewery Follies I caught glimpse of a snowmobile going by – rather a snowmobile fairing attached to the front of a motorcycle. While chatting with a few of the local bikers, the rig pulled a U-turn and parked in front of us. Referred to as Indian Jeff, the motorcyclist resides in nearby Sheridan and is a collector of Indian motorcycles. Jeff McGeary survived a collision with a free range bull while riding his motorcycle. Still in the wind despite his severe physical limitations, McGeary is piloted around by his wife, while he rides shotgun in his wheelchair parked on the sidelift. Paralysed from the waist down and having endured many operations, McGeary manages to compliment my nerve at travelling out to Virginia City from Ontario, Canada. Graciously McGeary poses with me for a pic, excitedly telling me about the fund raiser Peter Fonda held in his honor in 1998.

There is an assortment of activities to experience in this region. Horseback riding, a hike to Boothill Cemetary, or taking in a vaudeville presentation at Virginia City's opera house are just a few. In addition to experiencing an authentic representation of life during the gold strike days there are also some great twisties to be experienced throughout the State of Montana, where the Rocky Mountain Range, along with smaller ranges dominate the central and western parts of the state. Summertime weather is guaranteed HOT and dry except during those Montana thunderstorms, so have your rain suit handy. Virginia City and Nevada City are located along Highway 287, and roads leading in are paved. There is plenty of parking along both main streets. Side street portions of Nevada City are open to the public for a fee, and the roads are dirt, rutty and travelled by foot.

 

Where to Stay

Bennett House Country Inn
115 East Idaho St.,
P.O. Box 96,
Virginia City, MT. 59755
Phone: 877-843-5220
www.bennetthouseinn.com/

El Western Cabins and Lodges
4787 US Highway 287N,
P.O. Box 487,
Ennis, MT. 59729
Phone: 800-831-2773
www.elwestern.com/

The Raymond House (vacation rental)
120 East Idaho St.,
Virginia City, MT. 59755
Phone: 406-682-7112
www.virginiacityguesthouse.com/index.html

Nevada City Hotel and Cabins
Highway 287,
Nevada City, MT. 59755
Phone: 406-843-5377
http://www.aldergulchaccommodations.com/

 

Where to Eat

Chick's Bar and Motel
2322 Hwy. 287,
P.O box 41,
Alder, MT.
59710
Phone: 406-842-5366

Alder Steak House
Hwy. 287,
P.O box 142,