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Destination Ontario, Canada

Manitoulin Island – a suffusion of spirits, tradition and fresh air

This story first appeared in Long Riders Magazine

November 2008

It was a first for each of us. For Wayne, an 82-year-old widower, it was his first road trip with two women half his age. For Andrea the esthetician, it was her first road trip in a sidecar – first trip on a motorcycle, for that matter. And for me, it was my first motorcycle trip since my amputation, the riding season previous - a bone tumor gone wrong.

We were an eclectic bunch; a motley crew of sorts. Ready to conquer the world in our leathers and bandannas, and under a heady July sunrise, we struck off for one of Ontario, Canada's best kept secrets: Manitoulin Island.

Manitoulin Island is the largest freshwater island in the world, separating three bodies of water: Lake Huron to its south, the North Channel to its north, and Georgian Bay to its east. Covering 2,766 km², this Northern Ontario island holds over 100 freshwater lakes, many also holding their own islands. Steeped in aboriginal culture and tradition, Manitoulin (Ojibwe for “the great spirit”) Island is a treasure trove for travelers on a budget, with things to do and see that cost very little, or nothing at all.

The island is accessible by ferry crossing aboard the MS Chi-Chemaun (Ojibwe meaning “big canoe”) at Tobermory harbour from May to October, or year-round by swing bridge on Highway No. 6, west of Espanola. The ferry crossing takes approximately two hours and is usually first come, first served, however there is a reservation option. On a few occasions, taking the highway was a better decision if the forecast included high winds. I've been aboard the ferry on a number of occasions where crossing was a rough one, requiring a dose of Gravol® an hour before sail time. Wind aside, a popular ride is to access the island by ferry, leave by highway; and for this motley crew, this became the impromptu course of action upon leaving the island, as the prevailing winds nearly peeled back the roof to our rented 16 ft. trailer that particular morning.

The Potawatomi, Odawa and Ojibwe comprise the aboriginal Anishinaabe native people that predominantly reside on Manitoulin Island today. There are over 12, 600 permanent residents living on Manitoulin, with the population swelling to 50, 000 in the summer. The Island is host to seven reserves: Sheshegwaning, M'Chigeeng, Sheguiandah, Zhiibaahaasing, Aundeck Omni Kaning Wauwauskinga and Wikwemikong, the only reserve whose chief refused to accept the government treaty of 1862 to open the island to non-native settlement. It remains unceded to this day.

If you go to Manitoulin Island seeking a party atmosphere, you've gone to the wrong place. What you will find instead are mainly paved roads, rolling farmland and quaint coastal and inland communities, brimming over with First Nations cultural heritage and traditions. Yes there are pubs and bars; but the majority of visitors to Manitoulin prefer to take in a cold brew around a crackling campfire, under Northern Ontario's star-filled skies.

I have visited Manitoulin Island several times by motorcycle and automobile, and each trip I came away with the sense I did not give myself enough time on the island to see and experience all it has to offer. Although one could tour the island fairly well in five days, to participate in and appreciate all the cultural activities presented, a longer stay is recommended.

The best way to experience Manitoulin is to have a “home base” - accommodation, whether it's a motel room, campsite or bed and breakfast, from which to navigate to your destination. I personally prefer beginning my Manitoulin experience near the western end of the island, staying several nights in one spot, then moving on to the central region and eventually ending up on the eastern side of the island. You might wish to take ferry schedules into consideration when deciding where your last home base will be if you don't want to be a long distance from the ferry terminal, especially if you're planning an early crossing back to Tobermory. Summer crossings fill up quickly.
Summertime visitors to Manitoulin Island can choose from a myriad of events and activities to complement their scenic touring. Pow Wows, native dance demonstrations, drum circles and sampling traditional aboriginal cuisine provide visitors a window into traditional First Nations culture. Festivals, studio tours, museums, theater presentations, fish suppers and church suppers are scattered throughout the island.

The lack of industrial pollution resulting in Manitoulin's clean air makes for excellent star gazing – the featured activity of Gordon Park's Astronomy Nights and the Manitoulin Star Party. Additionally, Manitoulin Island offers ATV adventures, hunting and fishing, birdwatching, golfing on three island golf courses, unlimited hiking trails and lighthouse touring.

Providence Bay provides excellent swimming off a beautiful sand beach, complete with wheelchair accessible boardwalk, washrooms and ice cream parlor. For all you dirt-bikers, trailer your machines to Providence Bay and check out the motocross dirt track there, provided by the Manitoulin Island Dirt Riders Association.

Whether your vacation aim is touring, experiencing aboriginal living or just kicking back with a cold one in front of a sunset-bathed lake, Manitoulin has long been a favorite destination for motorcyclists. Largely unspoiled, it's laid back coastal atmosphere is sure to lure the first-time visitor back for more.

As for us, Wayne's 82-year-old heart survived the week with his bikini-clad girls. Andrea the esthetician-that's-never-been-on-a-motorcycle-tour survived riding through a downpour. And me - my arms may have resembled Popeye's after all the intense riding around the island hauling the esthetician in the sidecar, but my prosthetic leg - well she gave me something to stand on for next year's tour to Manitoulin.

Travel Wise

PLANNING YOUR MANITOULIN ISLAND EXPERIENCE

Entering Canada Foreign visitors need a valid passport. Permanent alien residents of the U.S. must present their Alien Registration Card, commonly referred to as a green card. U.S. Citizens arriving by land or water do not need a passport until 2009. You will need two of the following pieces of identification as proof of American citizenship:

Birth certificate

Certificate of citizenship or naturalization

AND

Photo ID, such as current driver's license

If arriving by air - for example you are flying to Toronto and picking up a motorcycle rental, you need a valid passport to enter. Canadian and American currency is accepted. For more information, contact the Canada Border Services Agency, or visit www.cbsa.gc.ca

When to go July is the hottest month, with the average temperature reaching 75 degrees. July and August are the driest months and is the best time to visit Manitoulin by motorcycle. Black fly season is finished and mosquitoes are few. Nights tend to be cooler and windier in August, so pack a pair of wind pants and a sweater. For the weather-hardy, visiting in September and October provide spectacular fall colour riding and heralds the beginning of hunting season. Don't count out Manitoulin in winter either – snowmobiling and ice-fishing can be followed by a roaring fire at one of the lodges catering to winter season visitors.

Where to stay Our Manitoulin! (www.ourmanitoulin.com) has an excellent lodging page to choose from.

Just so you know There are numerous convenience stores offering food supplies and camping gear, however the main shopping centers on the island are: Mindemoya, Little Current, Gore Bay, and Providence Bay.

HOW TO GET THERE
The island may be accessed by ferry from Tobermory harbour, Tobermory to South Baymouth, Manitoulin and by swing bridge along Highway No. 6 west of Espanola, Ontario. Keep in mind ferry service runs from May – October only, and peak ferry volumes are from Friday-Monday.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Scenic riding

Lighthouse tours Janet head Lighthouse, Gore Bay and Mississagi Lighthouse, Meldrum Bay.

Traditional Pow Wows Great Spirit Circle Trail presents several Pow Wows throughout July and August.

Museums Net shed museum, Meldrum Bay; The Old Mill, Kagawong; Pioneer Museum, Mindemoya; Centennial Museum, Sheguiandah; South Baymouth Schoolhouse Museum.

Hiking There are numerous hiking trails across the island. See Hike Manitoulin.

Wilderness ATV tours www.quadtours.com

Be sure to grab your free copy of Manitoulin's Magazine and Day Trips Guide, available aboard the MS Chi-Chemaun and various locations throughout the island. It is your Manitoulin experience at your fingertips.

To view article visit: http://www.longridersmagazine.com/cgi-bin/auth2/login.asp?u=/cgi-bin/auth2/lrm/download.asp

You will need to create a password to log in. Be sure to Allow a good 15 minutes to download entire magazine.

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British Parts Wanted

Wanted: British Parts. Repeatedly I've seen this ad in a buy and sell rag and I keep thinking, "Man, this guy's probably got a basket case, can't find the parts, and he's stuck in the middle of it." Seems for years now he's been trying to finish that ol' basket case. As a matter of fact I'm convinced the poor fellow hasn't learned his lesson yet and he's determined to drive himself crazy.

So one day while I was cutting the hairs on the head of another motorcycle bro, simultaneously trading biker stories about BSAs and Harleys, I happened to mention the British parts ad. Marty tells me he knows the guy behind the advertisement. So there we were, talking about the "poor fellow" who in fact was rebuilding a basket case and instead of learning his lessons, was actually teaching them. Excitedly Marty began to describe in animated detail the beautiful machine our "poor fellow" had rebuilt, from scratch.

This guy's got me intrigued by now. My wheels are turnin' by God and my head's abuzz with ideas for my new website. Now admittedly I know absolutely nothing about British motorcycles. I do know however that I've always favored the classic look of a vintage bike no matter what the make. So I flippantly asked Marty if he thought this "rebuilder of British bikes" would be willing to allow me to interview him (this flippantness always gets me into trouble...) Marty replies, telling me he'd ask him, and the worst that can happen is he'd say no. This would make a nice addition to my "Real Bikes Real People" page on my website...

A week or so goes by, and by now I had totally forgotten about wanting to interview John, the "rebuilder of British Bikes" - until one day I received a phone call from him. In a surprisingly literate, non-grunting well mannered voice, he agreed to let me come see his motorcycle and interview him. Jumping from my salon-professional clothing into jeans and a Harley shirt, with the glorious hot sun shining down upon me, I rode my bike over to meet John.

Rounding the corner onto his street, I saw a garage door, open to the world, complete with motorcycles displayed against a backdrop of bike posters and tools neatly hanging from their specified spots. Must have the right place. "Hi Liz! Come on in - we're inside the shop!" Suddenly a flood of conflicting thoughts and images invaded my head as I watched this small framed man, with neatly trimmed graying hair wave me in from inside the garage. Must be the neighbor who thinks he owns the place. Setting my lid on my motorcycle, I walked up the drive and joined the guys discussing bike repairs, inside the shop. By now I'm totally overwhelmed with the flash of chrome, parts and tidiness of the place, and still looking for John. There was no long-haired, goatee-bearded, 250lbs+, bandana-wearing biker dude anywhere to be seen. There was, however a small framed man with neatly trimmed graying hair and impeccable manners introducing himself as "John". Now, if ever there was a contradiction to be seen, this was it. I mean, this guy looked nothing like what I had pictured in my mind a "rebuilder of British bikes" would look like. His friend must have thought the same about me. He seemed pretty excited at the whole scene of my pulling up the drive on my loud rumbling Hog. Especially given the fact I was on my toes on the damn thing. (That always gets them...)

After a concluding diagnosis on his friend's British bike's woes, John sent him along his merry way, gas tank in hand and a smile on his face. But not before his friend sang the praises of John's intelligence when it came to British bikes. I could see by the collection of books and manuals lining the shelves that this guy had a serious hobby here - a serious obsession. Suddenly I felt privileged to have been allowed into this sacred place. That no one else would think to interview this man before (maybe they had, but didn't have the nerve to ask) made me feel like I'd won the lottery.

With John's permission, I began taking pictures. In his soft-spoken voice he talked about his bikes, describing what year they were born, what changes they'd gone through together on their journey to original condition - just as any proud parent would of their own precious growing babies. Married and childless, the retired elementary teacher had always had a passion for motorcycles. Restoring for only the last fifteen years but riding since age seventeen, John fondly recalled memories of his first bike - a 1966 Yamaha 250. Good year, I thought. I piped in about my Honda 250 at that point, and about my first year of riding - at age sixteen, on a Honda Twinstar. His passion for his British family very quickly re-ignited my own passion for motorcycles. I caught myself getting off topic many times, trailing off into my own stories of sordid adventures while on the road, often drawing a chuckle out of John.

Sitting under a lovely shade tree, a welcome respite from the 30 degree Celsius heat, it was during periods of my own silence (a rare thing I must say) that it became evident just how extremely knowledgeable this man was. He knew his craft well, and I could see why his friends would bring their "patients" to the "Dr. of British". John was once again teaching - teaching me that Norton's "Commando" was rubber-mounted -just like my Dyna is today, but back then, ahead of it's time. Teaching me that Triumph and BSA were competing adversaries. Teaching me that British bikes, while they tend to intimidate one who's not so mechanically inclined, are really just very basic - a motorcycle - with two wheels, basic suspension, and a motor which, except for a couple of special ones, requires mostly just simple hand tools to work with. When asked, his favorite bike is the Commando - he finds they have plenty of torque and run very smoothly due to the rubber mounted engine. John's first restoration was a 1970 Norton Commando and a 1970 BSA 500 Royal Star - yes, you got it - two at a time! He discovered that for the most part (pardon the pun) parts were readily available, whether original or reproduction. Most of the parts are Made in England still. The one thing John does find harder to locate are the gas tanks.

"I belong to the Canadian Vintage Motorcycle Group (CVMG) which is a great resource for information and parts. Our group hosts and attends regularly scheduled events - such as the upcoming rally down in Paris, Ontario, Father's Day weekend. It's a combination bike show and swap meet."

In addition to events, the CVMG publishes a newsletter containing free ads and is a great network within the club for the exchange of information. When asked about insurance, the reply was a surprising one to me. At one time not so long ago, it was difficult to find insurance for any vintage motorcycle over 25 years old. Skyrocketing prices kept collectors from insuring their treasures. Diligent sourcing on John's part led him to Dalton Timmis, an insurance company that caters to vintage owners. The prices were reasonable enough to prompt John into insuring his bike(s) through them. Although quotes may vary according to the model of motorcycle being protected, John found Dalton Timmis' quotes at times to be 1/2 of the current rate, further encouraging him to inquire about insurance for his Harley. (Yes, he rides a Hog as well.)

What's his wife think of all of this?

"She's the gardener. My wife has also been riding since age sixteen. She rides a vintage Honda 350/4. [350cc, 4cylinder] Once in awhile I need her assistance holding parts in position while I do what's necessary at the time. She is very supportive of what I do – she knows where to find me most of the time!"

So the wife didn't escape unscathed. Might as well join 'em if you can't beat 'em.

As for myself - what have I come away with? Well, if I don't ask, for sure I won't get. The most important lesson taught and learned - we all start off small, we never stop learning, and it's the Triumph of putting together all the little pieces, the turning of a key which actually opens the door, that makes life worth living. It's not about the end - it's about the ride along the way.

For further information about the Canadian Vintage Motorcycle Group, go online at www.cvmg.ca.

1972 Norton 750 Commando Combat
Starting in 1968, Norton made several models of Commando.
This 1972 Norton 750 Commando Combat has logged only 896
original miles since it's restoration. It is considered to be Norton's
fastest stock model of motorcycle. It is also sometimes known as
the Roadster because of it's small streamlined style. Norton then
produced a touring model Commando, utilizing the same chassis and engine
as the Combat, but with a larger fuel tank, different seat and different muffler
style. In 1973, Norton goes to 850cc. 1975 Norton 850 Commando Roadster
was Norton's first to have electric start, disc brakes front and rear, and was
also the last full year of production for the Commando.

1967 Triumph Tiger Cub
This little cutie (my favourite due to the size) uses all of its 200cc for trail riding as well as street. It sits at 4000 original miles, and is considered to be dual purpose - on and off road.


1968 Triumph Trophy 650 (also called Tiger 650)	1967 BSA 500 Royal Star Beginning summer of 2004, it took John less than a year of royal treatment to build this Royal Star from a basket. The chrome tank gave this model extra flash, and is what makes it stand out from the rest.


John’s official Wall of Shame – years of earning those grays!	John is pictured here on a 1970 Norton Commando

The edited version of this story first appeared in Motorcycle Mojo Magazine

November/December 2005, Volume 4, Issue 6